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Food for Thought: It's Andrea's new cookbook for the Nguyen

Rory O'Brien
Another nguynner from Andrea Nguyen.

As soon as we got our hands on Andrea Nguyen's new "Vietnamese Food Any Day" Nancy Leson and I went right to work. The book focuses on recipes for Viet food using ingredients available at most American supermarkets and Nance and I each cooked off several of them..  

"The first one I made was the sizzling rice crepes," Nancy said. The crepes are made of rice flour, colored and flavored with turmeric and coconut milk and filled with ground pork, shrimp, beans spouts and green onions.  "I've had this at local Vietnamese restaurants and it was really great to make it at home with things you can buy at your local supermarket."

Credit Nancy Leson / KNKX
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KNKX
Nancy's bánh xèo' sizzling rice crepes from Vietnamese Food Any Day.

A few days later she made the rice noodle salad bowl. "Noodles with fresh vegetables and marinated grilled meat."

Credit Nancy Leson / KNKX
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KNKX
Nance subbed wheat vermicelli for the traditional rice noodles.

I opted for the "Gratitude" chicken, celery and rice.  This dish calls for schmaltz, rendered chicken fat. I don't usually have any of that on hand so I picked up a value pack of chicken thighs, eight of them for just $6.50.  I boned them out, trimmed the fat and skin, covered them with an inch of water in a skillet and let the water boil away until the fat  liquified.  

Credit Stein / KNKX
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KNKX
Andrea says if you don't have rendered chicken fat you can use oil but the extra flavor you'll get is worth the effort. Everything's better with schmaltz

I saved the cracklings (the ones I didn't eat right there and then) to mix into the finished dish and roasted the bones to fortify the stock the rice cooks in. I poached two of the thighs in the stock and froze the rest. Andrea says it's fine to use oil if you don't have schmaltz, but I think chicken fat adds a lot of flavor. Final steps are a quick sautee of the celery and cooked chicken, before it cooks the rest of the way on the rice.

Credit Stein / KNKX
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KNKX

And the final result...

Credit Stein / KNKX
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KNKX

Andrea Nguyen appears at Seattle's Book Larder Monday, March 18, 6:30-8 p.m. to talk about and sign "Vietnamese Food Any Day."

"Improvisation is too good to leave to chance." – Paul Simon

Dick Stein joined KNKX in January 1992. He retired in 2020 after three decades on air. During his storied radio career, he hosted the morning jazz show, co-hosted and produced "Food for Thought" with Nancy Leson and wrote and directed the Jimmy Jazzoid live radio musical comedies and 100 episodes of Jazz Kitchen.