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A Culture Of Relaxation In Italy's Lake District

Matthew Brumley
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KPLU
Varenna, Italy, as seen from KPLU travel expert Matthew Brumley's hotel room.

Picture it: You walk out onto a patio in the early morning hours. Some church bells chime in the distance. You sip coffee. In front of you: the Alps, soaring out of a huge lake, with the towns of Bellagio and Varenna at your feet.

This is life along Lake Como, in northern Italy's Lake District. This place has a distinctive feel, says KPLU travel expert Matthew Brumley.

"It was occupied by the Austro-Hungarian Empire, so it has a much more northern feel [than the rest of Italy]," Brumley said. "There are these gorgeous lakes ... even the ancient Romans used to love spending time on these lakes to restore themselves and get away from the crowds during the summer heat."

In the parts of Italy travelers know best, the idea is to visit ancient sites and explore museums. Here, it's about relaxation — hiking through the mountains, eating fresh produce and great risotto with perch or mushrooms, and wandering through gardens.

"The villas are stunning, and the gardens within these villas are out of this world — crazy beautiful," Brumley said.

Credit Matthew Brumley / KPLU
/
KPLU
The patio at Hotel Ermeo Gaudio, on Lake Como, in Italy. In the distance is the village of Bellagio.

Where To Stay

Like any place, there are hotels or vacation rentals. Brumley stayed at the Hotel Ermeo Gaudio, a converted monastery that's now a simple, but well kept, hotel. 

"I think I paid 120 euro per night," Brumley said. In American dollars, that's about $136. "We always think of Richard Branson and George Clooney, who have their villas there, but it's really not that expensive."

You can also find affordable lodging on Airbnb and similar sites.

Cafes and restaurants in the nearby communities can be relatively inexpensive. And if you visit during happy hour — usually 5 to 7 p.m. — you'll very often find free appetizers with the purchase of a drink. 

Getting There

Not that bad, says Brumley. Fly from the West Coast of the United States to either New York or Amsterdam, and then on to Milan. From there, it's about an hour on the train.

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"Going Places" is KPLU's weekly exploration of travel. Matthew Brumley is the co-founder of Earthbound Expeditions, which provides small group travel for clients including KPLU. And if you ever find yourself near Lake Como, tell Mr. Clooney we said hello.

Ed Ronco is a former KNKX producer and reporter and hosted All Things Considered for seven years.